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MAY, 1900


as I passed along

northern Ontario, between Port Arthur and Rat Portage, I saw, sidetracked by the bank of a river, the private palace car of the President of the New York Central, one of the richest citizens of the United States. His wealth could not provide him in New York with what he was seeking and getting, free of charge, in Canadathe pleasure of casting a fly for gamey fish amid the most entrancing and restful natural scenery.

As I sojourned at Banff and Laggan and the Glacier in the Rockies, I met Europeans who had crossed the Atlantic and a great continent to view mountains more majestic in their number and extent than the Alps of Europe and fully equal in grandeur and colouring.

In Vancouver and Victoria I met Americans from San Francisco and other western cities who had come up to see the beauties of British Columbia, its famous mountains, rivers and salmon fisheries and to enjoy one of the balmiest climates in the world.

The Muskoka region, in Ontario, is crowded each summer with tourists from all parts of the United States, and last year many were forced to make a short stay because of inadequate accommodation.

The City of Quebec, with its quaintness and its romance, is yearly attracting an increased number of travellers anxious to see its madiæval relics and its historic rock. The celebrated

No. I

Chateau Frontenac is taxed to accommodate all the visitors who write their names on the register in an office which overlooks one of the most beautiful terraces in the world.

The Maritime Provinces are now the regular camping grounds of the people from the cities of the Eastern States. Halifax and St. John are well known as objective points for those who wish to escape for a month from the toil and heat of a large city, and to avoid the bustle and rush of a fashionable watering place. Here they find a land which is fanned by cooling sea breezes, which possesses land-locked harbours, where even the frail bark canoe may be safely launched, where the scenery is of a sweet pastoral simplicity or an impressive grandeur, and where in crystal brook or primeval forests may be found sport which will create memories to be treasured throughout life.

While the number of foreign tourists is on the increase, the Canadian people themselves are awakening to a realization that in their own country are to be found the chiefest pleasures of life. The neighbourly relations between the people of adjacent provinces are being extended and more "social calls "are being paid. The people of Ontario, and they comprise one-third of the whole population of Canada, are found making summer tours eastward through Quebec and the Maritime Provinces or westward across the prairies to the

mountain regions of British Columbia. Such a result is the inevitable accompaniment of the growth of railroad and steamship lines and of the perfecting of travelling comforts. The development of inter-provincial trade, the broadening of patriotism from provincial to national boundaries, and the more thorough acquaintance with Canadian history are also important factors in this development of inter-provincial travel.

The growth of the Canadian urban population has increased the number of people who are desirous of getting "back to nature" for at least one month of the year. Hence in the neighbourhood of each city there are one or more special districts where the summer cottage is in increasing evidence and where the formalism and restraint of the city can be laid aside to the benefit of mind and body. It is not many years since the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence were the only important resort of this character. Recently, however, many other places have grown into equal prominence as resorts. The people of Winnipeg do their camping and summer cottage duties on the Lake of the Woods, chiefly at Rat Portage. The people of the Ontario. cities have resorts in the Georgian Bay, on Lake Huron, Lake Erie, on the Niagara Peninsula, the Muskoka lakes, and along the Upper St. Lawrence. The denizens of Montreal have created many beautiful summer villages along the Lower St. Lawrence. The citizens of St. John and Halifax have no trouble in finding quiet sea-beaches beside which they may while away the heated days of summer.

The young men who desire to avoid the village of summer cottages and summer hotels have begun to visit Lake Temiskaming and Lake Temagaming, on the boundary between Ontario and Quebec, and some 230 miles north-west of Ottawa. The boundary runs through Temagaming, while Temiskaming is about forty miles east. The railway now runs as far up as Temiskaming Station at the southern extremity of

the lake of that name. Here there is a -fair hotel. It is best to take canoes and supplies along, but Indians can be engaged there. On Lake Temiskaming there is a steamer which takes the canoeist up to the head of the lake (75 miles); and from there to Lake Temagaming, via the Montreal River, is several days' paddle. There is a shorter route by the River Metabechawan, but the former route is more novel even if more difficult. Temagaming is above the average of these northern lakes in its beauty, its fish and its game. It contains over thirteen hundred wooded islands and these make canoeing safe and pleasant. There are trout and bass and doré such as are never seen nowadays in the better known tributaries of the St. Lawrence, and deer, bear and moose are frequently encountered. There is a Hudson's Bay Company post at Bear Island, in the centre of the lake, but otherwise there is no sign of civilization in the region. Indians, of course, are met with in many parts, and the canoeist is generally pleased to meet them. *

To return from this digression to the general subject, it may be remarked in conclusion that it is certain that Canada shall become more and more the resort of the summer traveller, especially from the United States. Her thousands of lakes and rivers afford plenty of sport for the seeker after pleasant excitement, her vast forest preserves are still well stocked with the finest game in the world, and the natural beauty of the many regions, which the prosaic hand of civilization has not yet touched, affords rest to the tired man or woman of the world. Canada is rising in importance as the natural play-ground of America, and that explains why this tourist number of THE CANADIAN MAGAZINE has been prepared.

* Two illustrated articles on this region, by a Torontonian who spent two or three seasons there, may be found in THE CANADIAN MAGAZINE, June and July, 1899, under the title, "With Rifle and Rod in the Mooselands of Northern Ontario."

The Editor.

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1. A Niagara Navigation Co. Steamer. 2. In High Park. 3. In Toronto Bay. 4. On the Humber River. 5. In Reservoir Park. 6. On the Humber River.

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RULY the trail of the tourist is over it all! Strolling about the busy cities on the Pacific Coast, that present to the stranger such odd contrasts between the modern buildings, flanking their asphalted streets, their quaint Chinatowns, and the impenetrable wildernesses of their vacant "town lots"-wandering through the exquisite glades of Stanley Park, or the charmingly laid-out grounds of Beacon Hill-a boat in the harboursa-picnicking up the canyons-a-wheel anywhere--the tourist is ubiquitous throughout the province of British Columbia.

How well we know him with his inevitable kodak and his soft fedora hat, and how dearly we love him for his honest appreciation of our great Canadian West! Occasionally it is amus


ing to watch his astonishment at the growth and development of the new towns, or to note his admiration of the wondrous beauty of some fern-dressed ravine, that is cleft into the very heart of the heavily-wooded hills, but at all times it is vastly pleasing to hear him exclaim with genuine enthusiasm: "I am glad I came ! "

And, well he may be-not only glad, but interested and fascinated also, for the tourist who visits British Columbia (let us say during the months from April to November, which are by far the most enjoyable on the Coast) finds himself amongst surroundings such as he has never met with elsewhere. In the first place, he discovers everything to be on a very large and generous scale, from the mountains with their giant fir trees and luxuriant vegetation, down

to the ideas of the hospitable inhabitants in this land where free life and fresh air characterize the entire country. Secondly, there is so much to see and to do that cannot be seen or done one-half as well in any other locality. And last, but not least, there comes to every stranger who visits the West that restful sense of living near to Nature's heart which appeals so strongly to the jaded minds of town-bred men and women. From dusk to dawn, from sunrise to sunset, a mighty peace lies upon the land, and a feeling of space exhilar



ates the brain.

Life seems

so very well worth living, so full of grand possibilities out on the Pacific slope.

Day after day the transcontinental express brings large numbers of tourists into the Terminal City, some of them bound for Chinese and Japanese ports, to which they sail from Vancouver by one of the Canadian Pacific Steamship Company's magnificent boats, commonly called "the Empresses"; others, anxious to take passage for Melbourne or Sydney, board the vessels of the Canadian-Australian Royal Mail Line; many en route to the Klondike and Northern points pass quickly through the town and are gone, whilst a goodly quota remain behind simply to spend a pleasant holiday in British Columbia.


Having seen all the glories of the Rocky Mountains, and feasted his eyes upon the spiral loveliness of the Selkirk Range, the Tourist arrives at the fine new Terminal station and establishes himself in one of the many local hotels such as the "Vancouver," the "Badminton," or the "Commercial." Then he naturally begins to look




around him. First of all, he takes in the town with its smart up-to-dateness and cheerful air of bustle; next, perchance, he scrapes acquaintance with some returned Klondiker or owner of Atlin claims, and listens with breathless interest to marvellous accounts of the wonders that may be seen farther North, from the lips of that sanguine individual, with the result that he is fired by a fierce ambition to instantly extend his trip to Dawson City, via the Yukon & White Pass Railway, one of the grandest scenic routes in the world. By and by, mayhap, he strikes a civic official, or that unrivalled encyclopedia, "the old resident," and is promptly whisked off to visit Stanley Park, Chinatown, or the Hastings Saw Mill and wind up with a turn along the docks, where tall-masted ships lie at anchor, and the steamers running to Skagway, San Francisco and the Puget Sound ports are tied up. These latter vessels offer to men of a roving disposition ample opportunity for making short excursions to places of interest north and south of British Columbia, and the round trip to Alaska on

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