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many in bands à la Madonna. The white | declined in favour. Muslin dresses are hats were ornamented with plumes of white ornamented round the border with lettings feathers, and dark lilac ribbons: on the Leg-in of broad lace or rich embroidery, with horn hats, the feathers were fixed in the form muslin bouilloné, puffings or quillings: of diadems, behind a band of leghorn: these pattern, in open work, of large leaves, is feathered diadems were composed of very much admired on white dresses. Gowns small cocks' feathers of every colour, and mixed with those of the peacock's neck.

The hats, which are placed very backward, are many of them of a lemon colour or a ponceau; they are ornamented with matted ribbon and olive branches, and have a veil of striped gauze thrown back. Over the crowns of Leghorn hats is often seen a plaid handkerchief, forming a kind of Turkish turban, and some are tied down simply with a silk handkerchief. The finest straw hats are the least ornamented: some are merely ornamented with one bow of ribbon, or one single flower, which is often a musk rose, or a variegated rose, half yellow half pink, or half pink and cinnamon brown. Yellow crape hats are very fashionable, with yellow flowers and binding. Straw gauze is a favourite article for carriage hats; they are trimmed with ribbons of the same colour, and yellow wild roses. Cotton hats, in imitation of straw, are generally ornamented with a plume of curled feathers, of a rose colour; on rice-straw hats is generally thrown a rose-coloured veil, in elegant drapery, with long tassels at each corner, and a band of straw round the crown; these hats are tied under the chiu with a large how: some hats are ornamented with laurestina, branches of hawthorn, wood strawberries, and half ripe pine strawberries. Striped gauze hats, of rose and lemon colour, or of bright jonquil, are much in favour for the carriage.

of gros de Naples have a simple and tasteful trimming round the border, which is com|| posed of two rows of laurel leaves, cut in satin: there is a space between each row of about three fingers in breath, and a space between each two leaves that gives them a very light appearance: the leaves have a vertical direction at the mancherons, and on the corsage they are ranged in bias in double rows: the belt is made to correspond, by having two leaves in front instead of a rosette, which are fastened together by a clasp. When dresses are ornamented round the border by flounces, the flounces are fluted, and set on in festoons; some are placed in bias, in short festoons.

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On Sunday night's performances at the theatres, the dress of the ladies is generally much studied: several are attired in a style of the most affected simplicity, and all their ornaments consist in a polished steel buckle to fasten their belts in front. Watered tabby ribbons, of a wild poppy colour, have a beautiful effect as sashes, when worn with black lace dresses.

Turbans of striped gauze, of a rose colour, with beautiful long flat white ostrichfeathers, are much worn in full dress: where the feathers are fastened is a clasp of polished steel, in the middle of a knot of ribbon. A new kind of dress cap is also of pink striped gauze, ornamented with ranunculuses of a gold colour and a red brown: they are very becoming to ladies who have dark hair, and who are, at the same time, fair and ruddy.

Short sleeves are very prevalent, even in undress; doe-skin gloves are worn with them, that tie above the elbow. Gowns of barège silk are much worn; most of them made in the Mary Stuart style; but some ladies resort to something more antique, and have their robes made à la Clotaire; this latter dress is, however, very unclassically, made of Scotch plaid silk. The beau-fastened with gold clasps. tiful sashes of gauze ribbons, with butterflies painted on them, have given rise to some severe witticisms; but they have not any wsic

Parasols are of the yellow of the buttercup; the handle terminates like the caduceus of Mercury.

The shoes are of silk, the colour of Apollo's hair. Hair elegantly wrought is much in request for rings and bracelets,

The new fans are made of isinglass, elegantly wrought, or adorned with paintings representing coronets and wreaths of flowers;

a ribbon of a colour to suit, runs through || of fine India muslin, trimmed with lace; the mount, from the two side sticks, which, the hinder part of the body trimmed with when the fan is played, discovers two dif-white silk, in chain cordons, buttons, loops, ferent sides of the mount.

A remarkable trinket has lately made its appearance, and one of a more curious kind was never surely invented. It is a kind of compass in miniature, which is suspended from the neck, like a little watch. The dial, instead of indicating the different way the wind blows only shews the four cardinal points. The North, to which the needle always turns, is named Cape Fidelity; the opposite side, which is the South, is called the Promontory of Inconstancy: the East and the West are designated by the names of the Land of Indifference and the Desert of Forgetfulness. As I said above, the needle is always turned to the North Cape, but by means of a moving circle, the Land of Indifference may be placed under the same point, or any other that indicates the situation of the person's heart that wears the trinket.

The favourite colours are ponçeau and lemon colour, Spanish snuff, Apollo's hair, camel's hair, and rose colour.

REMARKS ON THE PROGRESSIVE
IMPROVEMENTS IN FASHIONS
AND DRESS.

THE present charming Duchess of Glou-
cester, when Princess Mary, was the first
seen with her fine hair dressed with a bow
in front; this fashion was eagerly followed
in the year 1795; the rest of the hair was
arranged in loose ringlets. Round dresses
had not, however, yet become general: the
petticoat was of fine muslin, and a robe of
the same; and this muslin petticoat and
robe formed a favourite dress at the different
watering places: the robe was trimmed
round the neck and down the sides with
lace the sleeves were short, and the waist
encircled by a sash.

For the Evening-dress, the front and side hair was dressed in a variety of small and large curls, while the waist was encircled by a narrow sash of coloured ribbon; a black gauze scarf was a favourite drapery for out-door costume, at evening visits. A beautiful round dress made its appearance,

and tassels; the border of the dress was ornamented by a triple flounce, not unlike those of the present day. Shoes embroidered in silver gave an elegant finish to the dress.

Some ladies, at the conclusion of the month of October 1795, dressed their hair in a manner that was by no means generally becoming: part of the hair was combed straight down on the forehead, a fashion set some years before by the famous Ann Catley: the other part was arranged in small curls; some of the hind hair fell in larger curls, with a very becoming negligence; the rest of the hind hair was turned up plain, and fell again in ringlets, which were confined and ornamented with a white satin rosette; the occupation of a hairdresser was then of great importance; and over the hair so tastefully disposed, or rather drawn through it, was a plain but very fine muslin handkerchief; or, sometimes a lady wore a white silk hat, trimmed with coloured crape, with a white ostrich feather, curled only at the end, and placed on the right side near the front. A petticoat of fine clear lawn, with the border richly worked, and a body of coloured taffety, trimmed behind with black silk chain and buttons, and white satin sleeves, was a very favourite evening dress: to the body was affixed a train of clear lawn trimmed with lace. Gold ornaments, intermingled with large pearls, and white satin shoes embroidered with silver, completed this tasteful dress.

No changes worth recording took place in English costume till the year 1799, when the rage for loose Grecian dresses and black sick stockings caused the wits to be merry at the expense of those fashionable ladies who played high at cards; saying, that the || English ladies of quality had become Greeks || and black-legs! We are sorry to say too that the bosom, legs and ancles, were, this year, very indecorously displayed: the shoulderstripping fashion became so general, that females seemed to vie with each other who should expose her back the most.

What makes this conduct the more reprehensible in English women, ever eminent for modesty both of conduct and demeanour, is, that they copied this nudity from the (then) female savages of France, where the most stylish dress in 1799 consisted solely of a chemise reaching just above the ancles, and ornamented by fringe, embroidery, or flounces, so that it resembled

a petticoat: over this chemise was a wrapper with short sleeves, girded round the middle. No stays, no petticoat nor pockets, nor any thing on the head; the shift and wrapper constituting the whole dress, except shoes and stockings. We cannot forbear crying out with the old Commères of France belonging to the old school,-“ Fidone!" MARCUS.

THE CORONATION OF HIS MAJESTY GEORGE IV.

the scene has been graced by every thing that talent, virtue, and valour could furnish, every thing that is delightful in the annals of British Chivalry, and venerable in our constitution: they have seen this grand display of our highest national ceremony attended by a simultaneous shout of welcome and enthusiastic admiration from the rank and beauty of the land, and from countless myriads of all orders and de

To describe this brilliant and affecting || and a chaste magnificence could devise; spectacle in suitable terms, to convey to the mere reader an adequate conception of the admiration, the delight, and the varied feelings of the actual spectator, is indeed beyond the power of language. Fully aware of this impossibility, we shall equally avoid that prolixity of description which produces a mere table of the procession, and the rhapsody which, while it is overcharged, is without distinctness, and is tedious in its detail, without being satisfac-grees. They have seen this consummation torily minute. We saw and heard with the eye and with the feelings of an artist, and shall narrate with strict fidelity, and with the impression of the scene upon our hearts.

It is impossible to reflect on the manner -in which his Majesty's Coronation has been celebrated without feelings of honest exultation and triumph. Those who, with the best feeling, objected to the measure at this particular period, as involving an expense which they did not consider to be strictly necessary, and those who affected to regard it as a splendid pageant unsuited to the sober sense of the age, now unite in applauding the firmness which determined upon the measure, in admiration of the taste with which so much necessary splendour has been displayed, and in perfect satisfaction at the temper and dignity with which supposed points of difficulty have been overcome.

They have witnessed the most brilliant spectacle, perhaps, ever seen in Europe, they have seen this truly regal festival assisted by every thing that taste, ingenuity,

of their hopes, and now unite in extolling the measures which determined it, and in warm congratulation at the happy result.

It is a matter of no small importance on an occasion like this, that we can record so extensive a ceremonial without the alloy of any material personal accident to any of its spectators; and it is with sincere pleasure we announce that the splendid ceremony of Thursday was conducted throughout with the most perfect order, and though the assemblage of the people was unprecedented in point of numbers, the harmony, exhilaration and rejoicing, were not tainted by the smallest disorder, nor accompanied by the slightest accident. It appeared as if the whole metropolis and its vicinity had poured forth their entire population. Shops were shut-all business ceased-and the whole world seemed to be animated by one sentiment of exultation at the magnificent and various pleasures which had been prepared for the festive occasion. The streets, during the whole night, were crowded with ladies and gentlemen, in full dresses, hurrying to Westminster Hall and Abbey, or

to take their stations in the numerous gay erections which had been prepared to afford the spectators a near view of the Royal Procession.

Across

During Tuesday and Wednesday night, in order that no unnecessary interruption might be experienced in the public thoroughfares during the day-time, the workmen, under the direction of the Board of Works, were busily engaged in raising barriers at different points that commanded the streets and passes leading to Westminster Hall or Abbey. From Charing-cross a stout barrier was placed (about 15 feet from the pavement) to Parliament-street, so that the fullest possible room, about 20 feet in width, should be secured for persons having tickets of admission to the Hall, the Abbey, or the Coronation Galleries. And a still stronger barrier was raised along the centre of Parliament-street, one side only being appropriated to carriages going towards the scene of universal attraction. Bridge-street, as well as in King-street, and the neighbouring thoroughfares, all the carriage entrances were wholly blockaded; thus securing the most commodious means to persons proceeding on foot to the different places for which they possessed admission tickets. At all these points were stationed constables, supported by parties of military; and at the several passes were placed experienced individuals, who had been instructed in their various duties. They examined the tickets and the pretensions of the several persons applying to pass on to the Abbey, Hall, houses, or galleries. They were previously made acquainted with the mode in which the various tickets of the Lord Great Chamberlain (Lord Gwydir) for the Hall, and the Earl Marshal of England (Lord Howard of Effingham, Acting Deputy) were prepared, signed, and superscribed; and they were also provided with good general means of judging of the authenticity of cards for the different galleries. Every arrangement was made to accomplish the great advantage of clear roads and facilities of approach; and the regulations adopted at those points, passes, and barriers already noticed, were provided at the other stations.

All the arrangements were finally made on Wednesday night. The High Bailiff of Westminster, (A. Morris, Esq.) the High Constable, (Mr. Lee) and the several Magistrates of the different police offices, Sir Robert Baker, Mr. Birnie, Mr. Mainwaring, Mr. Raynsford, Mr. Markland, &c. under the advice and with the approbation of Lord Sidmouth, agreed upon at the office of the Home Secretary of State, adopted a plan of general and particular operations. Each Magistrate had his different station allotted to him, with a specified number of the police officers to attend his commands and enforce his instructions.

Besides the precautions taken in the several streets, and at the various thoroughfares, as already described, arrangements of a similar character were adopted at the several approaches from the River Thames. In the course of the night, the stairs, landing places, &c. along the Westminster side of the Banks of the Thames, were closed, with parties to command them, from the Hungerford to the Horseferry Stairs.-Some exceptions were made regarding the Stairs at Whitehall, and a temporary landing place formed at the lower end of the Speaker's garden, for the accommodation of the Treasury and Ordnance Barges, conveying certain Great Officers of State, some parties of Peeresses, &c. as well as the barges of the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, Sheriffs, and citizens of London. And at this entrance proper precautions were taken by stationing a civil force in the Speaker's gardens; while in the river, these regulations were strengthened by the Thames police boats and a gun-brig moored off Westminster-bridge.

The Platform.-The temporary boarding placed up each side of the Platform, some weeks ago, to prevent damage, by indiscriminate visitors travelling over it day and night, was completely removed in the early part of the morning. On its removal, the Platform presented a lively and finished appearance. The railing on each side of it was covered with purple cloth, and the flooring was covered to the extent of sixteen feet, leaving about a yard on each side uncovered, with the same sort of blue cloth.

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The awnings were drawn, but at short distances red lines were placed, by which command was had of them, to close or spread them as circumstances might require. To each line and pulley was allotted one man, with a particular dress, so that the most rapid change of the awnings could be effected, should the weather require any change in their position, while the addition || of a staff enabled these men likewise to act as constables. There were also placed, on each side of the Platform, along the whole range of it, men provided with pincers, hammers, &c. to repair any damage that might happen to the Platform itself, or whatever was calculated to impede the progress of the Procession, and its attendant ceremonies. These men were also supplied with a like livery, with staves of office as constables.

From each of the angles formed by the ends of the hammer-beams in the roof, was suspended by a gilt chain a large splendid cut-glass lustre, with broad ornamented gilt rims and frames, containing three circles of wax candles, being between 40 and 50 in each lustre.

The first and second galleries had mattings and scarlet coverings. The royal box on the right, and the foreigners' box on the left side of the royal table, were entirely lined with scarlet cloth, festooned in front, and ornamented with gold fringe.

The throne seat and the royal table attracted general admiration. With the exception of the large fluted columns, the royal seat and canopy are in the style of the throne in the House of Lords. The back is crimson velvet, with the royal arms embroidered on it, and the limits are decorated with gold ornaments. The canopy is square, with a raised and variegated gold cornice round. The centre displayed a splendid

Underneath the cornice is a crimson velvet vallance, separated into divisions, the lower portion of each division being rounded with gold, while its centre is decorated with gold, embroidered, and raised ornaments illustrative of the military orders, and of the emblems of the United Kingdom, the Rose, the Thistle, the Harp, &c. The chair is equally splendid; the arms and legs consist of rich carved work gilt, with crimson velvet back also ornamented.

The Coronation Galleries.-The immense range of galleries in the fronts of houses in New Palace-yard, along the Exchequer Offices and Chambers, over the Cham-crown, underneath which are G. R. IV. pion's Stables, in Parliament-street and square, in George-street, in St. Margaret's Church-yard, in the large spaces, on gardens and squares, between the Parliament House and Sessions House, it would be impossible to particularise. The magnitude of these accommodations, their uniformity, and convenience, have excited the wonder of the inhabitants of this great metropolis, and of thousands from all parts of the country, who have repaired to town solely with the view of witnessing the preparations. All these galleries underwent the strictest investigation, by surveyors appointed for the purpose; and all possible precautions to prevent accidents were adopted.

Westminster Hall. Of the preparations within the Hall for the ceremonies preceding, and the banquet following his Majesty's Coronation, the coup d'ail was of the most pleasing and imposing character; the galleries along each side of the Hall, the tower and turrets over the grand entrance, and the Royal platform and table, were finished in the highest order. The new windows in the roof, and the recently-completed lantern upwards of 40 feet high on the centre of the roof, greatly improved the effect.

About nine o'clock on Wednesday night the King left Carlton Palace for the house of the Speaker of the House of Commons in Palace-yard, where his Majesty slept on Wednesday night. His Majesty's coach was escorted by a strong detachment of the Oxford Blues, accoutred as cuirassiers. They made a most beautiful appearance. The carriage drove at a rapid rate across the parade in St. James's Park, through Storey's-gate and Great George-street. His Majesty was recognised by the crowd on his passage, and saluted with every expression of loyalty and attachment. Previous to the departure of his Majesty from Carlton Palace, the crowd between Storey's gate and Westminster Hall had been cleared by the

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